montjoye: (Default)
( Aug. 27th, 2016 03:00 pm)
Close set rows of buttons are a characteristic of 14thC clothing. We know that metal buttons were used. Other materials were also used, including walrus tooth(Greenland) and fabric. My work on these fabric buttons is mostly based on finds illustrated and described in the Museum of London book “Textiles and Clothing- Medieval finds from excavations in London”. This is a link to an image of the most complete sleeve fragment Some of the other button finds are more spherical, and it is these that my technique most closely resembles. I'd love to include a picture here but I don't think copyright allows. For those that have access to the book, see p169, fig144. In fact, if you are interested in this sort of thing, go buy the

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montjoye: (Default)
( Mar. 18th, 2015 09:19 pm)
I am delighted with how little woozy happened today. Particularly give I spent the vast majority of the day out doing errands. The ruddy snot demon still hasn't quite gone though, and guess who forgot to buy more of the magic aloe vera tissues?

Shiny car got serviced, mrsbrown was met for morning tea, train into town, Maria's beads for hat pin blanks and other treaty finds, Morris for perle cotton to do sleeve borders*... and... about an hour spent aquiring my first ever smartphone!!!

Really though, I want to record the buttonhole experiment I did yesterday. I have many times done machine made buttonholes then covered these with hand sewing. This is a slight change. First of course, the buttonhole edge needs to be reinforced. This set of sleeves has a cheaty** iron on interfacing plus a straight grain linen seam tape. Then run coarse tramline stitching as a guide to buttonhole placement and length***. The machine "buttonholes" in this case are just zigzag, done with the simple buttonhole foot and using half left and full right needle position. Ya, I realise that means they are not quite central, but I found I needed 1.5 needle position difference to give a cut-able gap between the two zig zag runs. I did this partly because my machine has forgotten how to do reliable auto buttonholes, plus the HA examples I know of for this period don't have the obvious bar tacks at each end. Also this makes for less torture of the sleeve fabric. I cut each buttonhole with a chisel immediately before doing the hand stitching.

on the lining side:

The right side with just machining. Isn't that checked wool pretty? even if the pic is a little overexposed.

With some of the hand stitching done, only a dozen buttonholes to go. Hand stitching is done with a single thread of madeira silk embroidery (four stranded) thread.

So far, this whole project is from stash, except the thread I bought today for the sleeve edging. That berry coloured lining is from an old pair of full length hose that I decided looked ridiculous on my legs. I am so not boy shaped. So I cut those hose down to knee highs, these linings are cut from the top of one of those hose.

*sadly to get the colour I had to buy #5. I really wanted #8.
**cheaty only in reference to historical accuracy you understand.
***and I still didn't quite manage to get them all the same length!



montjoye: (Default)


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