There are several 14thC finds that seem to be garment fragments with tablet woven edges illustrated and described in the Museum of London book “Textiles and Clothing- Medieval finds from excavations in London”, by Elisabeth Crowfoot, Frances Pritchard and Kay Staniland. 4 of these fragments have tablet woven edges and no buttonholes, another 4 fragments have the woven edges plus buttonholes. I'm not going to place pictures here for copyright reasons, but here is a link to "the sleeve" which has the edging in question down the buttonhole side.

the rest under here )
SaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveRecommended order of operation:
-make or otherwise aquire your buttons
-work out how long the buttonholes need to be
-make the sleeves, with facings wide enough for the buttonholes
-sew your buttonholes
-do the tablet edge (can be done later, but not have buttons to catch on is a bonus)
-mark the button positions
-sew on the buttons.
I've written this up for a class I run occasionally on demystifying the art of testing for fibre types by burning. Keeping it simple, just dealing with the basics.

rest under here )
montjoye: (Default)
( Aug. 27th, 2016 03:00 pm)
Close set rows of buttons are a characteristic of 14thC clothing. We know that metal buttons were used. Other materials were also used, including walrus tooth(Greenland) and fabric. My work on these fabric buttons is mostly based on finds illustrated and described in the Museum of London book “Textiles and Clothing- Medieval finds from excavations in London”. This is a link to an image of the most complete sleeve fragment Some of the other button finds are more spherical, and it is these that my technique most closely resembles. I'd love to include a picture here but I don't think copyright allows. For those that have access to the book, see p169, fig144. In fact, if you are interested in this sort of thing, go buy the

all the rest under here )Save

montjoye: (Default)
( Feb. 4th, 2016 11:11 am)
Are all done, yay. It's only taken me 5 months to get around to sewing them all.

I'm looking forward to wearing this one! It's too warm to put it on today though so you only get pics on a hanger. I've cut it on the baggy side for easier donning and comfy lounging about. I left out the centre godets to leave the stripes as uninterupted as possible. I would have been happier with the fabric if the stripe had been symmetrical so it matched with the inversion of the side pieces but striped wool isn't easy to find and I couldn't get the needed fullness without the inverted cut. The mismatch is less noticeable than I feared though. I'd have cut the tippets longer but I didn't want another piecing seam in the sleeve.


It's based on these sort of garments from the Taymouth Hours. I've made this sort of shaped overgown before, but look! it's short! and split! So practical for camping, packing and general outdoor wear.


All the pics have some sort of line or dotty border. I've gone with a simple prick stitch for subtle bling.
I've been planning this frock for at least 6 mths. It's one of my early 14thC gowns in a lightweight wool. The fabric started out as off-white smooth wool suiting bought in Adelaide about 5 years ago, for $10/m I think? When washed it went oddly crepey, but that gives it extra elasticity. I've over dyed this twice with food colouring. In the end the fabric was washed at least 4 times before being cut, so it ought behave well when laundered now.

I reckon this fabric is probably lighter than would be authentic, but I get a gown that weighs only about 600g and should be comfy up to days of low 20'sC.

It's finished except for the hem, which has to wait until I have a pinner.


more pics etc )
montjoye: (Default)
( Nov. 27th, 2015 09:28 am)
I've been mean to make this lovely fine springy stripey wool fabric up into a breezy sideless gown since before I aquired said fabric. I think this was 5+ years ago? When did we go to Suthmoot? was it 2010? Anyway, i bought the fabric there from a fellow attendee. I've done it now in case the weather turns out to be hot next weekend. Right now though it's only 15deg, amusing?

It's basically a copy of the heavier green striped one I made for the Laurel frock-off 11(!) years ago but with a deeper neckline and overall a bit longer. This one looks better moving, the fabric is so fine one needs to take great care with the sewing, and still the drape is affected. I wondered for ages what sort of edge finishing to use. I wanted contrast binding but thought that might fight the main fabric too much so I've gone with my usual straight grain silk facings. I didn't have leftover buttons in appropriate colours so I made some, out of scrap from a wedding blanket made, um, 12yrs ago or so?




Further adventures in blue:

-The blue hood is now wearable, even worn. It still needs a tablet woven border on the buttonhole edge to be considered finished.
-The blue frock just needs the buttons sewn on (tonight is the plan), and probably a similar border.
-I hope to aquire thread for these borders tomorrow.
-I’ve made a few changes to the belt design and done the first stage of warp preparation. The buckle still hasn’t arrived but I can usefully thread the cards before it does. Green has morphed into grey, simply because the grey is a better match for thread weight. Blue has changed places with green/grey and now also has a red dot in the middle. It also has contingency for needing to drop cards to manage the width. Late breaking news: the buckle has arrived!
pics )

In other news:
-I didn't have patterning brain available this morning, so no brown jacket progress.
-I’ve been attacked by a sudden design for a loose coat for the small length of coral coating from Job warehouse. That fabric is now found, washed, dried and pressed.
-The latest beer(Vin Lager) is ready to bottle. Maybe that is the next task.
-I will go to midwinter, to see the visitors if nothing else. If I have a bad enough time, I shan't go to further investiture events (I'm "allergic" to court these days)
-I do have a wearable warm german frock, so i shan't plan to make a new one for the good food feast. It's not maximum spekky but it will do. Of course I may yet suffer a rush of enthusiasm and make one anyway.

Although I now have time to work on the brown jacket of my desire, I have concluded that I need to push on with the blue garments while that is where my head is at. I'll get these to handwork only stage before I move on. Today I cut the blue hood and did the machine assembly. I'll do some of the handsewing tonight, then hopefully get the buttonholes done tomorrow. I've ammended the pattern a bit from the red one, narrowed the gores and shortened the hem at the shoulder. It ends up less frilly and with a rounder hem. Nice.

Last night I realised that my list notebook page had a grid pattern. This inspired me to get into the design for the new tablet woven belt. I did some card count calculations and charted out what I had been thinking. Then I popped into excel to play with versions. As you can see, I liked the bottom one and have copied that out to get a better idea of the finished weave. It will be less blocky in reality due to chosing the direction of threading appropriately. I'll wait until the buckle is here before I start, though if I felt wild and crazy, I could thread up the loom. Hmm, I do need to find where I have hidden the good shuttle and starting clip. Where o where?

Now to go get dinner started before the light goes completely and my lark/budgie brain just wants to curl up on the couch.
design pics )
montjoye: (Default)
( Mar. 25th, 2015 07:45 pm)
I've finished the two 14thC gowns. Except the hem on the blue, which is cut and pressed but not sewn yet.

The buttons on the checked gown are from my Laurelling underdress. The blue buttons were conveniently left over from another project.

. .

IMG_4930 .

I've also patterned and made trial garments for the Wizard. Now I'm waiting on him to tell me when he can come try them on.

AND- I went mad and cut out an overgown from very bright, very thick red wool coating. It's partly constructed. I won't get much more done today because, surprise, my arm is in protest.

If I get the overgown done, i could take only 14thC garb to festival. Except I haven't enough chemises. Sigh. I'm already pushing it mightily to get the works in progress done.

montjoye: (Default)
( Mar. 20th, 2015 01:18 pm)
Woot. All the buttonholes and buttons are done. This frock still needs
-binding on the buttonhole edge*
-a bit of edge stab stitching, cuff ends at least.*


I'm so pleased with this gown that I went mad yesterday and decided I want a linen version. So I put blue dye through a length of heavy linen. That is laid out to cut now. I also dyed fabrics for garments I have planned for the Wizard. My current costuming list pre-festival looks like this:
-finish checked gown as listed above
-cut and "run up" blue gown.
-finishing on blue gown- could happen on site Just hem left
-come up with Wizard shaped patterns for tunic and trews
-make up Wizard trial garments to fitting stage

-do a fitting
-finish one set, hopefully two sets for W. Any hand finishing could happen on site too pre W arrival.
-deepen neckline on old 14thC chemise (It has been strangling me)
-make up another couple of 14thC chemises (I'm probably dreaming. I'll just wear my Flem ones if I don't get this done)
-and now I want a 14thC overgown, sigh- cut, part make, pin fit, finish machining, hand work

Of course I'm planning to take way more clothing than I need. Possibly in reaction to the extreme restrictions endured for CF

Then there is the food and other list. That's where I'm feeling stressed. I don't even want to write the list. Maybe if I do I'll feel better?
-check tabletop
-probably need to refinish the ends (again)

-find or remember macaroon recipe
-make two batches of these

-come up with two menu plans for Festival dinners (this is the real stress I think)
and now I have to redo one I think. Argh- take fettiplace and 100eggs, read on site
-consider pre game-on food (also stressful)- take pesto and dried herbs, figure it out on site
-deal with needed packing improvements- some- I've never sent everything in the truck before.
-air bedding

-Fix small coffee filter
-Oxyper sesame jar- not necessary

*to maintain my standards, sigh.

montjoye: (Default)
( Mar. 18th, 2015 09:19 pm)
I am delighted with how little woozy happened today. Particularly give I spent the vast majority of the day out doing errands. The ruddy snot demon still hasn't quite gone though, and guess who forgot to buy more of the magic aloe vera tissues?

Shiny car got serviced, mrsbrown was met for morning tea, train into town, Maria's beads for hat pin blanks and other treaty finds, Morris for perle cotton to do sleeve borders*... and... about an hour spent aquiring my first ever smartphone!!!

Really though, I want to record the buttonhole experiment I did yesterday. I have many times done machine made buttonholes then covered these with hand sewing. This is a slight change. First of course, the buttonhole edge needs to be reinforced. This set of sleeves has a cheaty** iron on interfacing plus a straight grain linen seam tape. Then run coarse tramline stitching as a guide to buttonhole placement and length***. The machine "buttonholes" in this case are just zigzag, done with the simple buttonhole foot and using half left and full right needle position. Ya, I realise that means they are not quite central, but I found I needed 1.5 needle position difference to give a cut-able gap between the two zig zag runs. I did this partly because my machine has forgotten how to do reliable auto buttonholes, plus the HA examples I know of for this period don't have the obvious bar tacks at each end. Also this makes for less torture of the sleeve fabric. I cut each buttonhole with a chisel immediately before doing the hand stitching.

on the lining side:

The right side with just machining. Isn't that checked wool pretty? even if the pic is a little overexposed.

With some of the hand stitching done, only a dozen buttonholes to go. Hand stitching is done with a single thread of madeira silk embroidery (four stranded) thread.

So far, this whole project is from stash, except the thread I bought today for the sleeve edging. That berry coloured lining is from an old pair of full length hose that I decided looked ridiculous on my legs. I am so not boy shaped. So I cut those hose down to knee highs, these linings are cut from the top of one of those hose.

*sadly to get the colour I had to buy #5. I really wanted #8.
**cheaty only in reference to historical accuracy you understand.
***and I still didn't quite manage to get them all the same length!

montjoye: (Default)
( Mar. 15th, 2015 03:48 pm)
Being home alone while sick is dull. I suppose having multiple childer to look after would be worse so I perhaps I should be thankful. I must be getting better though, I haven't napped today. Congestion is reduced but the woogly wankle is still present. I spent a few minutes cutting back the oregano and came over all thing.

I got through all of yesterday's list except this hem binding which flowed over to today. Nearly all of it could be done sitting down, which is just as well, particularly the 4m of handsewing which I did while watching a few eps of " ....Green Valley". It looks so neat!  It ought be just a plain hem, but I did that and the facing I used fell apart plus the loose woven pink wool wasn't coping well either. This should work better. Poetically the black binding is cut of cabbage from the "negative frock"- the pink trimmed black Durer gown.

montjoye: (Default)
( Jan. 11th, 2015 05:07 pm)
In case you need to recognise me at CF, this is what I will be wearing most of the time, along with my existing wardrobe of chemises, hats, shoes, aprons etc. Sometimes I might dag about in chemise and sideless. All the items in this picture are new sewn for this event.
-The frock because nothing else really fits.
-The coat because my old coat weighs 3 tonne (actually only 2kg, and only half a kilo heavier than the new one, but hey) and is rather moth eaten.
-The scrip bag because apparently that is what one uses at CF, and that mention in the event booking blurb was a good reminder that I usually wander about festival with a small basket.
-the underskirt because the one I had that would have looked good is rather heavy.

There is a somewhat silly amount of recycling in this outfit:
-The underskirt was once a dress* that I concluded was ill conceived and thus had put aside for remaking. It makes a rather nice underskirt and looks good with the new frock. The upper part of the underskirt is from the original green underskirt made to go with the orange dress. When I stopped wearing the dress, I stopped wearing the underskirt, so that has been cut up too.
-The main coat fabric used to be an underskirt that I never wore much, too warm and too boring. Makes a nice mid weight coat though
-The lacing string for the dress is from the most recent frock iteration of the old "button frock" that I more recently cut down and made a skirt out of.


I've had a go at packing. I can get all garb, including coat, plus sleep gear, toiletries and a wodge of linen for M, into my suitcase. My bathroom scales of unknown accuracy say the lot weighs 23kg- which is the limit on my ticket. Win! I figure I go with that and if they kick up a stink at check-in, I just extract the coat. Street clothes etc fit in a backpack and there is still handbag room to go. I'm pleased and rather less stressed to have got to this point.

*dress from which the underskirt was constructed. I did have to replace a motheaten section of the purple trim.
orange frock
montjoye: (Default)
( Mar. 18th, 2013 07:56 pm)
Last stitches went in my new chemise today. These few bits of linen are the extent of my new garb for festi, and they are all pretty much identical to ones I already have. Sigh. No frocking excitement for Montjoye. I sure hope my food and beer adventures are successful.



And seeing as three posts is my daily limit- I shall also report that I am sick. Just a lurgy I think but one with bonus fever currently. I shall try to get the fermenter washed and then it's back to the couch for me.
So I bought that orange dye, put it through the other half of the beige flannel and came up with a better colour, for me at least*. I'm less happy with the dye job, I got less colour strength and there are a few pink patches. This was i-dye. I'm not terribly impressed. I looked up Gold Cross(used for the plum)- which seems to be still a current product but one can only get it from pharmacies- no indication of which pharmacies- I've tried two near work, neither has it.  So if anyone sees Gold Cross dye for sale, let me know eh?


I'm thinking these scrappy bits of olive green wool might make sleeves and stomacher. I can then wear my existing green peasanty underskirt


However, the new fabric is very little different from Flem frock mark I. The colour is almost the same, just a bit darker. The fabric is nicer (denser) but isn't much heavier. Sigh. I wonder if I'll be sufficiently happy with the end product? It'd be another narkoo frock which is vaguely amusing. Ah well, I'll set this all aside for a bit. I want/need to put a thing or two together for the work conference in a few weeks.


*That red wool is so good on me that it is a reasonable test of whether a colour is "mine" or not. If it works with this red then it is likely to be good. If it clashes, then not so much. All rather fun given the red jacket is made from an old roman tunic of Blethan's.
montjoye: (Default)
( Oct. 31st, 2011 10:15 pm)
Ya, ya. Some of you have seen this on FB so look away if bored. Reposting here as LJ/DW is slightly less ephemeral than FB.

Anyway. So I've had a compulsion to make sun dresses for some time. I've finally had the first go at acting on that. I've had this cute fabric for a year or two. Is a lovely mid weight silk with tiny printed daisies in raspberry, gold and cream. Then I got an invite to a pink themed, pink ribbon day knitting thing at Morris etc in town... so... this silly little girly sort of 20's frock was inspired. The bonus inclusion that makes it I think are the vintage lace motifs that begged to be put down the front.


It accessorised up quite nicely. And gave me the first excuse I've found to wear my pink straw cloche hat.


The whole outfit just might go out again to a cup day party tomorrow?
montjoye: (Default)
( Oct. 29th, 2011 07:15 pm)
When putting one's favourite* hat down at a party, I recommend NOT putting under an overflowing candelabra! I felt a bit targetted by the fates or something...I happened to pick the spot beneath the only candle that dripped, of the only one of five ceiling mounted candelabra that had pillar candles rather than tea lights. NOT HAPPY.


But. The two sequinned feathers were not waxed and ruined. And, after much picking, scraping and ironing into paper, the residual wax isn't hugely noticeable. AND I had been to Photios bros earlier that day to buy replacement feathers 'cause these were shedding and getting shabby. So total ruination was not the result. Whew. I've still to sort out the feathers again, but that is doable.


*lets say favourite German rennaissance hat. as opposed to all the other favourite hats in my collection.
montjoye: (Default)
( Oct. 9th, 2011 07:05 pm)
My old corset is a bit small and was always the wrong shape. I have enjoyed wearing it but have been meaning for years to make a new one, with better shape and in a colour other than black. I stuck to my intentions this weekend and thus... have a new pair of bodies!


I still need to oversew the eyelets and thread in the lacing tape. I might add some lace? but I pretty much have a functional and pretty new thing! Thanks to doushkasmum for fitting assistance. Also to Mr B for cutting the spiral boning for me.

-outer is silk upholstery brocade from Rathdown remnants bolt end bin. Cost ~$4 and I have leftovers
-lining is moleskin drill left over from a pair of trousers- and obtained through a fabric swap many years ago
-thread, eyelets and spiral boning were from stash.
-lacing tape was bought at festi for random projects.
-The only components bought new and full price were the busk and back bones.

Steampunk tea party, here i come. Now I have to think about what I'll wear with this

montjoye: (Default)
( Jul. 2nd, 2011 08:54 am)
Love the design! love the arrival timing (in time to include in my outfit for Steampunk Circus tonight). Not so fond of the brass case, which arrived seriously dirty. I've given it a good rubbing with tissues, should get to it with polish I suppose. Leaves one's fingers smelling brassy and will likely leave marks on clothes. Mayhap I should just think of it as industrial grime adding to the steampunk verisimilitude or some such.

love that it is proper wind up clockwork! however it doesn't feel like a quality mechanism. Ah well.



This )

gorgeous label on the packaging


montjoye: (Default)


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