I've written this up for a class I run occasionally on demystifying the art of testing for fibre types by burning. Keeping it simple, just dealing with the basics.


rest under here )
montjoye: (Default)
( Mar. 12th, 2016 11:13 am)
Another piece of lovely linen has been made into a thing. I think I bought this piece from tangent woman? It was too small for most things I could think of, but was enough for an apron. I deemed the fabric so nice that it deserved a fancy hem. I've been working on it as my medjeeval project when I didn't have a more urgent one since festival before last. In the last little while I decided that 2 years was quite long enough to work on an apron though, so I decided to get it finished for this festival. Done.



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montjoye: (Default)
( Mar. 1st, 2016 01:15 pm)
I've taken in the new shirt pattern in a few places and converted it to include a yoke. Also shortened it and put a shirt tail curve on the hem. It's moving back towards a classic shirt. There are enough changes that I should cut a new pattern, and I still need to raise the armhole a bit, and I suppose convert the cuff to a standard one. Yes I had a shirt pattern but it is too close fitting than what I want for comfort. So I went too large and now it's being brought back in. Iterative pattern development again. I suppose I want a shirt that fits well but isn't tight and has no darts. I may end up with back darts anyway for my sway back, otherwise the overall effect is visually larger than it needs to be. Oh, this collar is just an old fashioned deep rectangle. I rather like this sort, though they don't work well with a close fitting jacket collar. The "cuff" is just a hem with a fastening of a pair of buttonholes and a button.

I keep going on about lovely quality linen. This is another example. Quite a loose weave but feels stronger than one would expect. Extreme "linen wibble" in the hand, possibly very long staple? This is one of the pieces I got at Christopher George back in November. Buttons are blue dyed (I presume) shell, from Eliza's I think. Corded buttonholes again. When I do these, I should perhaps sew the buttons on with a thread shank?

So ~$15 in materials? plus a day or two work.

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more pics )
More an oversized linen jacket than a shirt. Cut yesterday, sewn today. Lovely quality green and white shot linen remnant from Potter textiles* in Perth, about $18 for 1.5m by memory. It was wide or I wouldn't  have been able to cut this. As it was, the position of the sleeve trim was inspired by having to cut the sleeve ends separately. Lace trim to add interest. The vaguely military overtones will go well with the Mad Motley jacket.

Really this is too big, but I'm pleased with the construction. I will think about how to best ensmallen the pattern around the shoulders before cutting the next shirt. Plain white linen interlining in fronts and collar.


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more.... )
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My latest haul from Eliza's

satin jaquard polkadots, silk/cotton in both black and cream. 3m each @ $6/m
remnant of blue/gold wool boucle 1.7m for $16
grey pinstripe tight weave linen. 2.5m@ $4/m. I'm going to wash this and if I like it, go get more. It's unusual and could be really hard wearing.
greenish blackish denim, 2.5m@$2.5/m. This last is what I went for. Those "almost jeans" I made to wear to NZ are so successful I want another pair or several.


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I've been planning this frock for at least 6 mths. It's one of my early 14thC gowns in a lightweight wool. The fabric started out as off-white smooth wool suiting bought in Adelaide about 5 years ago, for $10/m I think? When washed it went oddly crepey, but that gives it extra elasticity. I've over dyed this twice with food colouring. In the end the fabric was washed at least 4 times before being cut, so it ought behave well when laundered now.

I reckon this fabric is probably lighter than would be authentic, but I get a gown that weighs only about 600g and should be comfy up to days of low 20'sC.

It's finished except for the hem, which has to wait until I have a pinner.

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more pics etc )
montjoye: (Default)
( Nov. 28th, 2015 04:40 pm)
I've been musing on this idea for some time so while in sideless groove i thought I'd try it out. A sideless gown for street wear! I'm sure other people have done this before but I have amused myself. I look forward to seeing how it is to wear.

This length of denim was bought at the last stashbusting market I attended for the princely sum of $5. I cut it based on the medjeeval versions I have but dropped the neckline quite a way and ended up having to take it in lots. That extra fullness just made it look many sizes too big in a modern context.

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couple more pics )

Apparently these people only sell to the public twice a year. I'd never been there before, it was a bit intense! Huge stock, vaguely categorised but bolts completely unlabelled. Only three cutters serving and some were slow from inexperience. By the time I had made decisions of what to buy, the queue to pay was frustratingly long but I had some nice conversation with my queue neighbours.

From left to right
-the two fine stripe knits were $3.50/m. They came in short lengths, not off a bolt. 1.2m of the blue, 2m of the green. I must test the fibre content.*
-striped linen shirting 2m@$6/m
-stripey wool! 3m@$10/m. I'm thinking a sleeved short overgown
-more stripey wool! 4m @$10/m. Under gown of some sort, with lovely bright buttons of course
-teal subtle tweedy tartan. Totally yummy wool. 3m@$10/m. No idea yet what this will be.

the last two were found at the bottom of a stack of bolts, I had to heave ho to get them out. There was another beautiful stripey wool at the bottom of a different and deeper stack of rolls. Sadly I ran out of oomph to get that out. I'll cross my fingers it is still there at the next sale I can get to.


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*burn test conducted. It did not behave as expected. No evidence of plastic. I was expecting cellulose fibre but it seems to have at least some protein content. Burned slowly without self extinguishing, no melt, no bead, crunchy black ash, mixed odour. I guess a wool/cotton blend? or something like that. Strange.
montjoye: (Default)
( Nov. 27th, 2015 09:28 am)
I've been mean to make this lovely fine springy stripey wool fabric up into a breezy sideless gown since before I aquired said fabric. I think this was 5+ years ago? When did we go to Suthmoot? was it 2010? Anyway, i bought the fabric there from a fellow attendee. I've done it now in case the weather turns out to be hot next weekend. Right now though it's only 15deg, amusing?

It's basically a copy of the heavier green striped one I made for the Laurel frock-off 11(!) years ago but with a deeper neckline and overall a bit longer. This one looks better moving, the fabric is so fine one needs to take great care with the sewing, and still the drape is affected. I wondered for ages what sort of edge finishing to use. I wanted contrast binding but thought that might fight the main fabric too much so I've gone with my usual straight grain silk facings. I didn't have leftover buttons in appropriate colours so I made some, out of scrap from a wedding blanket made, um, 12yrs ago or so?



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montjoye: (Default)
( Nov. 19th, 2015 03:07 pm)
Remnants and samples from the Laura Ashley warehouse sale. Yay for being able to get there on a weekday.

The samples were 50c apiece. I'm sad I miscounted and only got 7 of the velvets. The silver flowers are really pretty but a bit scratchy for the purpose- which is to build pale summer cushion covers. I don't want to be sweating on the silk patchwork ones.

The two remnants are sizeable (~half meter?) and were $5 each. The bottom one is a printed fine velveteen and might get used for some garment or other.

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I also scored a nice quality plain cotton Tshirt for $10 and a lovely ruffle edged drapey black cardigan for $29.
montjoye: (Default)
( Nov. 9th, 2015 03:00 pm)
I'm doing the "I've got Liberty Paisley" dance. Woo and Hoo!

Phillips shirts in Melbourne are moving and trying to sell off all their fabric. Well so they say but apparently they don't have new premises yet. They have so much stock that I cannot see how it will clear in a week. I wonder if they will drop the prices stupid low? or take the remainder with them? or sell it as a job lot? or what?

I knew they had Tana lawn at $25/m. My considered decision in advance was that I wanted paisley, not girly florals. Of the 8-10 designs available, three were paisley and two were colours I love. I feel so lucky. Apparently more Liberty is due to be delivered later in the week. Do I go back?  Oh I can't go Friday, just as well I suppose.

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So, the damage:
The measuring was very generous, so price per meter ended up less than expected. Liberty was theoretically $25/m and the rest $8/m. (Silks were $12/m but I didn't get any)

Orange Liberty- 2.5m, paid for 2m
Blue Liberty- 3m (but with a small cut and a water mark), paid for 2m
So these came out to $18.20/m. 115cm wide.

Blue satin stripe- 3.5m, paid for 2.5m (I loves me a satin stripe)
Blue/green strip- 3.5m, paid for 2.5m
Pink/green/white check- 3.3m, paid for 3m (this is tip top quality shirting, glossy but still cotton)
So this lot came out to $6.20/m, but they are all very narrow, only 92cm/~1 yard wide.



montjoye: (Default)
( Oct. 31st, 2015 06:22 pm)
My latest, rather sombre, haul

IMG_6288

From bottom to top:
pale grey fine cotton knit, 3m @ $1/m
even finer white cotton knit 2m @$2/m
black silk satin with elastane 2.5m@$8/m
mid grey wool twill, last of the bolt , 1.5m@ $5/m (where was this when I was looking a few months ago?)

knits are for bloomers/drawers
stretch satin for underwear, mm
that twill will make nice hose for someone someday. It's pale enough to take some colour too.

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montjoye: (Default)
( Oct. 1st, 2015 04:08 pm)
Pale pretty pink silk satin. Bought for only $3/m because it had a water stain about 30cm up from one end of the bolt, which happily mostly washed out. So $6 for the fabric, about $5 for matching silk thread and something less than a day's work. It's my choice to do this rather than pay ~$100 for a shop bought one. Plus this one has the extra bonus of fitting me.

No I shan't post a pic of this one on :-)

I will say that silk satin is easier to sew than one might think. Much easier than synthetics, easier than rayon. I'll also note that sewing the side seams has exposed that I need to sharpen the cutting knives on my overlocker.


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montjoye: (Default)
( Sep. 14th, 2015 09:21 am)
Finito. A done thing.

I'm really pleased with it in general. Of course there are things I would do differently now, there almost always are.

The main fabric is that strong linen I've been going on about. It really is different from the linen i am used to. I got it at the Fabric Store, and they even still had some last time I was there. I probably paid about $20/m (including 30% off, those sales are when I mostly shop there!)for 2m of 150cm wide. The lining is more regular linen, bought cheaply from Eliza's. The buttons are vintage shell, all different but the same size.

The pattern is my own invention. 14 years ago I took toile fabric and made a pattern for my old Durer coat. Earlier this winter I used that as the starting shape for the salmon duffle coat. Then I further converted that pattern into the one I used for the grey and gold overcoat. Now I've slimmed that down to produce the pattern for this. So from flat fabric, via 3 intermediate garments, I have made a "proper" jacket pattern. Two part curved sleeves and all.

Structure:
pretty much bag lined, which seems fine for the body. The sleeves are where I'm not happy. I stuffed up when cutting and failed to add on hem allowance. Actually I stuffed up when finalising the grey jacket pattern by not putting said hem allowance on the pattern, now done. So I bag lined the sleeve so I could use a tiny 5mm seam at the cuff. Not ideal as the lining is already dropping a bit despite the ditch stitching I've put on the vertical sleeve seams. I should have added a proper hem from the main fabric. Probably should have lined it in slithery stuff too. Ah well. There is light weight iron on interfacing in the upper collar, front edge of the body lining and hem. I taped the roll line (woot, tailoring talk) to combat the bias drape on the main fabric. The collar and shoulder seams are ditch stitched by hand. The pockets are fully lined patch pockets sewn on by hand prick stitching, top seam is taped.


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Yes the sleeve cap has a few wrinkles when my arms are down. This is because they are patterned to sit properly at more like hands on hip position, which is really done to give me a full range of arm movement. I'd rather have a few wrinkles when standing straight so that I can drive, type, do whatever comfortably.

IMG_5874-2 IMG_5890-1 .
I’ve been doing my head in trying to design multiple garments and outfits at once. Pick something woman! So I prioritised cutting the jacket from the linen that I had pressed and laid out on the cutting table maybe a week ago. It’s not the garment I need first but it is the one that was ready to go. So the outer is now cut, mostly seamed and the fitting tweaked. The big decision on this one is what to line it with. The outer linen fabric is strong* but really quite fine. I’m thinking of lining it with a different linen in the same colours. PoW check lined with stripes, both in shades of taupe and cream. It will provide a bit more extra body than lining rayon would and simplify construction a bit, but I will need to be careful and alter the edges a bit to allow for turnbacks etc. The end product will be a slightly closer fitted and shorter version of the new grey and gold coat. I sure hope it fits me for more than the next month.

*I’m saying strong because it feels so. It’s not thick and heavy, I think the threads are spun more tightly before weaving than the linen we are used to. It might also have a longer fibre staple? So it has a “longer” and more obvious linen “hand”, or “wibble” as I more usually call this.

Part of the cognitive clash is that some of the other garments I'm trying to develop are deliberately very simple cuts. This jacket is quite a contrast with lots of curved seams and careful fitting.


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It has just occurred to me that one of the reasons I have been so tired in the last couple of weeks is that I am breaking my brain in to a new glasses script. I always think a new script is not right until I’ve worn it for a few weeks. It seems to be settling in now and was just very useful in assisting me to unpick a pale taupe seam from this pale taupe linen. Couldn’t see to pick at the right threads with the old glasses.

montjoye: (Default)
( Aug. 14th, 2015 05:18 pm)
Foolishly or not, after wanting to for days, I took my still lurgified self off into town for a pin point mission to see what Clegs had on sale for the closing of their city store. I was hoping for Liberty Tana Lawn at stupid cheap prices of course, and cheap haberdashery too. Well, these two Tana lawn bolts were reduced to half price but the rest of the Tana was not reduced at all. No broad reductions on anything really except sewing patterns and millinery stock. I was a bit conflicted about both of these pieces. The yellow roses I have a shirt out of already, but this piece can sit aging in stash until the current shirt has worn out. That won't take forever because I love it and wear it lots. The pink flowers, are not my pink, but I like the pattern and the green. Both pieces are 1.7m @ $22.48/m, or $38.22  each, way more than I usually spend on fabric but Tana is special.

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montjoye: (Default)
( Jul. 28th, 2015 02:50 pm)
After this lot, I'm back into trying not to aquire any more for a while. I was proud of making a little room in the fabric storage, but not enough to put this lot away. Better get sewing.

This sort of post is the closest I get to recording my stash.



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-Gold corduroy- bought for the colour. 1.2m @ $9/m. Likely a skirt of some sort.
-Purple fine herringbone twill wool. 2m @ $7/m. Hose?
-Beige fine wool flannel (with a little hard to avoid these days elastane) 1.2m @ $23.8m. This is hard fabric to find, especially in anything other than dark suiting colours, hence me paying closer to proper retail prices. This was 30% off at the fabric store. I mean to divided this and dye separately before making hose. I need some new pairs.
-Glorious sky blue mid weight felted wool. $3.7m@$15/m. Not sure how this will behave but I love the colour.
-Black/chocolate checked fine plain weave wool suiting. 2.5m @ $8/m. I'm thinking full street wear skirt.
-Red thin wool coating with hairy nap. 3m@$15/m
-Mulberry mid weight wool twill 3.5m@ $6/m.

montjoye: (Default)
( Jul. 24th, 2015 11:01 am)
Found at Rathdowne Fabrics yesterday. All at 5$/m. The black is 3m of silk voile with a fringey check. The huge brocade is ~1.2m, synthetic but slithery and lush, will probably become a curtain of some sort. The embroidered piece is ~2.5m of heavy linen. I'll be brave and wash this in the hope I can make garment/s from it. The two pale pieces were bolt ends, had to buy the whole piece.


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The project list is feeling a bit silly long. So trying to pin it down a bit here.

Committed:
charity hot water bottle cover, must be done by Monday
quilt cushion cover for mama, by mid Sept
quilt for little S, no special deadline but soon


Coats:
brown stretch velvet short flared
same pattern (yet to be developed) in strong cream/gold linen

same or similar again in black. My old one is dying.
pieced black/grey overcoat
"viking coat" in taupe/gold wool with fancy frogging
if I like the above and the embroidered linen washes well, then same again in it.

Frocks
teal wool jersey- it'd be nice to have this for Sunday! wasn't done then but is now cut
layered Aline fine wool
black embroidered cotton( summer)
blue stripe silk (summer)
and lots more brewing, choosing is hard.

Shirts
couple each in fine cream and fine black for starters.

Skirts
denim x2

Troosers
wide leg pattern refresh
then make up in linen, lined wool, soft denim.

Bloomers
a few short pairs for summer

Costume
edge on red overgown
dye fine wool
lightweight 14thC gown from above if dying works
mid weight 14thC gown - for CF. Not keen on the one length I have that will do this, I have my eyes open for another
extra 14thC chemises
extra 14thC veils
more hose- for which I don't have fabric.
finish new belt-for which I need more rivets
very light striped sideless
investigate getting circlet and robust medallion plated.
find appropriate straw hat that doesn't need pinning on.
new pouch, it's about time


So in the next few days I ought tackle the hottie cover and the wool jersey frock, plus work on sourcing tiny brass rivets.  Mmm, and I'm allowed to go fabric shopping for thin wool flannel and 3m of mid weight coloured wool with a bit of drape. I have several 2m pieces that I wish were three. I wonder if two would work together in particolour? See, writing it down helped :-)
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montjoye: (Default)
( Jul. 7th, 2015 10:24 am)
This coral wool coating is so soft, and such a pretty colour. At the Job Warehouse sale it was one of the bolts carried out of the shop to make room for people to enter (yes really). I nabbed it fast as wool in pretty colours isn't easy to find and this is a favourite. As a part bolt it cost me all of $2. There was only 2 metres of it so I think I've done well to cut a knee length hooded coat from it. The sleeves are pieced and the back is reverse nap, but I managed to keep the fronts, hood and upper sleeves the right way up. The creamy grey/pink wool is cabbage from the Netherlandish overdress I made last year. I had taken it to the stash busting market but it didn't sell. Somehow in the process of putting it away, it ended up next to the coral wool and they suddenly announced what they wanted to be.

I've run a wide spaced prick stitch on the edges where the cream and coral meet. I'm pleased with this, it gives a nice gentle control without the hard tortured compression line that machine top stitching would make. I'm not completely pleased with the pockets. They are set a bit low and perhaps I should have sewn them on buy hand. They would also sit better if I hadn't had to piece them but piecing was the option available and I wasn't in the mood for welt pockets.

Maiden voyage tomorrow methinks.


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more pics + costs )
As posted on FB today, I've made 2 pairs of pantaloons* to replace my old dead ones. Before I could finish the second pair, I needed more stretchy lace. So I allowed myself a visit to Eliza's, dangerous place that it is. I did get the required black lace, and some teal for good measure. Plus two lengths of fabric:
-teal and cream stripe cotton knit, 1.5m @ $2.5/m- which has already been cut into another pair of pantaloons
-multi coloured, presumably Indian, cotton. Not sure whether this will become a dress, skirt, bloomers or what. It's not often seen for sale by the metre though and I like the colours so I grabbed it. 5m @ $1.5/m but very narrow (80-90cm).

The floral cotton knit was adopted from Mama's stash ages ago, I just included it because it was hanging about.

So I've extracted one fabric length and converted it to useful garments and replaced it with another that goes to stash. The stripe knit doesn't count as stash because it's already cut!


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* a much more amusing term than "leggings"
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