There are several 14thC finds that seem to be garment fragments with tablet woven edges illustrated and described in the Museum of London book “Textiles and Clothing- Medieval finds from excavations in London”, by Elisabeth Crowfoot, Frances Pritchard and Kay Staniland. 4 of these fragments have tablet woven edges and no buttonholes, another 4 fragments have the woven edges plus buttonholes. I'm not going to place pictures here for copyright reasons, but here is a link to "the sleeve" which has the edging in question down the buttonhole side.
collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/288417.html

the rest under here )
SaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveRecommended order of operation:
-make or otherwise aquire your buttons
-work out how long the buttonholes need to be
-make the sleeves, with facings wide enough for the buttonholes
-sew your buttonholes
-do the tablet edge (can be done later, but not have buttons to catch on is a bonus)
-mark the button positions
-sew on the buttons.
I've written this up for a class I run occasionally on demystifying the art of testing for fibre types by burning. Keeping it simple, just dealing with the basics.


rest under here )
montjoye: (Default)
( Aug. 27th, 2016 03:00 pm)
Close set rows of buttons are a characteristic of 14thC clothing. We know that metal buttons were used. Other materials were also used, including walrus tooth(Greenland) and fabric. My work on these fabric buttons is mostly based on finds illustrated and described in the Museum of London book “Textiles and Clothing- Medieval finds from excavations in London”. This is a link to an image of the most complete sleeve fragment collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/288417.html Some of the other button finds are more spherical, and it is these that my technique most closely resembles. I'd love to include a picture here but I don't think copyright allows. For those that have access to the book, see p169, fig144. In fact, if you are interested in this sort of thing, go buy the book:www.museumoflondonshop.co.uk/store/product/26129/Textiles-%26-Clothing-1150-1450-by-Elisabeth-Crowfoot%2C-Frances-Pritchard-%26-Kay-Staniland/

all the rest under here )Save

montjoye: (Default)
( Jun. 20th, 2016 05:57 pm)
reposting here for better findability.

I think it’s time. I’m going to have a bit of a holiday from the SCA. I have not been having a good time at standard SCA events with fighting+court+feast+lots of people(all of whom I’m supposed to know and interact with) or any combination of the above really. All of those things distress me in various ways. I’ve been feeling this way for quite some years but forcing myself to go to events because I think I ought, feeling like a fish out of water and not having a good time. So I’m going to try having a break before I burn out the remainder of my enthusiasm. I still love making things, knowing other people who make things, wonderfully crazy people, dressing up etc, but it’s hard to be involved in those things without large helpings of the rest.

I will still attend Polit university. A&S is cool, I’m booked, and anyway, I’m teaching. I will still make things, some of them might even be medjeeval. I think I will otherwise plan to stay away until Canty Faire (flights already booked). If I have a good time there I will likely come to festival. The very large events actually work better for me, I’m more able to find a safe corner and mostly avoid the things I’m not coping with. After that we will see.

Of course I might miss it and attend anyway, but I’d rather come when I’m not expected than feel I’m expected to go. We will see.
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montjoye: (Default)
( Mar. 12th, 2016 11:13 am)
Another piece of lovely linen has been made into a thing. I think I bought this piece from tangent woman? It was too small for most things I could think of, but was enough for an apron. I deemed the fabric so nice that it deserved a fancy hem. I've been working on it as my medjeeval project when I didn't have a more urgent one since festival before last. In the last little while I decided that 2 years was quite long enough to work on an apron though, so I decided to get it finished for this festival. Done.



IMG_7233

IMG_7261-1
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montjoye: (Default)
( Mar. 7th, 2016 02:17 pm)
With my hips sore after a 2hr walking/shopping trip, I was motivated to get to the mattress enhancement project on my festival list. I have a rope bed, with a half thickness cotton futon and a feather topper. All home made, which is nice and all but this rig leaves me tossing and turning with sore hips after a night or so.

those two lumps of foam are latex mattress offcuts I got at Reverse Garbage a couple of years ago. Dr Nik helped me lug them and compress them so I could get them home in my suitcase. I had visions of making a mattress topper with the thick piece, but of course there is less of it than I had imagined. I could possibly achieve this anyway if I could manage to cut it in three pieces horizontally. Rather a job. Apparently electric carving knives are the best way to cut this stuff, and I don't have one. So... in the short term, I decided to make a small pad for the hip zone out of the thin topping strip.


IMG_7217


I cut that in three and encased it in some left over cotton canvas, which some might recognise from an ill conceived attempt to cover the BBQ shelters at Tara.

IMG_7220

I quilted it very coarsely by hand to prevent the pieces shifting, and sewed down the edges of the canvas on the machine. Voila! I hope this is a bit more comfy. I will find out rather soon. It could hardly be worse.

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And yeeess. This is a single mattress. It fits better in my tent than a wide bed dammit.
montjoye: (Default)
( Feb. 4th, 2016 04:04 pm)
That bowl I was allowed to buy- well I've found one. It's not perfectly medieval but it's pretty good. It's the right size and shape, not too heavy, pleasingly, rustically hand painted, and even in my heraldic colours. It should ideally have a darker clay body I think but this will do.

I took a long walk to my nearest major train station to exchange a myki card that was about to expire. The nearby Savers had this waiting for me. I was out walking for nearly 2 hours and now I'm a bit shattered. Must do that sort of thing more often. The Breadtop store there makes the best little custard horns.


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I'm looking forward to wearing this one! It's too warm to put it on today though so you only get pics on a hanger. I've cut it on the baggy side for easier donning and comfy lounging about. I left out the centre godets to leave the stripes as uninterupted as possible. I would have been happier with the fabric if the stripe had been symmetrical so it matched with the inversion of the side pieces but striped wool isn't easy to find and I couldn't get the needed fullness without the inverted cut. The mismatch is less noticeable than I feared though. I'd have cut the tippets longer but I didn't want another piecing seam in the sleeve.


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It's based on these sort of garments from the Taymouth Hours. I've made this sort of shaped overgown before, but look! it's short! and split! So practical for camping, packing and general outdoor wear.

taymouth3

All the pics have some sort of line or dotty border. I've gone with a simple prick stitch for subtle bling.
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montjoye: (Default)
( Jan. 11th, 2015 05:07 pm)
In case you need to recognise me at CF, this is what I will be wearing most of the time, along with my existing wardrobe of chemises, hats, shoes, aprons etc. Sometimes I might dag about in chemise and sideless. All the items in this picture are new sewn for this event.
-The frock because nothing else really fits.
-The coat because my old coat weighs 3 tonne (actually only 2kg, and only half a kilo heavier than the new one, but hey) and is rather moth eaten.
-The scrip bag because apparently that is what one uses at CF, and that mention in the event booking blurb was a good reminder that I usually wander about festival with a small basket.
-the underskirt because the one I had that would have looked good is rather heavy.


There is a somewhat silly amount of recycling in this outfit:
-The underskirt was once a dress* that I concluded was ill conceived and thus had put aside for remaking. It makes a rather nice underskirt and looks good with the new frock. The upper part of the underskirt is from the original green underskirt made to go with the orange dress. When I stopped wearing the dress, I stopped wearing the underskirt, so that has been cut up too.
-The main coat fabric used to be an underskirt that I never wore much, too warm and too boring. Makes a nice mid weight coat though
-The lacing string for the dress is from the most recent frock iteration of the old "button frock" that I more recently cut down and made a skirt out of.

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I've had a go at packing. I can get all garb, including coat, plus sleep gear, toiletries and a wodge of linen for M, into my suitcase. My bathroom scales of unknown accuracy say the lot weighs 23kg- which is the limit on my ticket. Win! I figure I go with that and if they kick up a stink at check-in, I just extract the coat. Street clothes etc fit in a backpack and there is still handbag room to go. I'm pleased and rather less stressed to have got to this point.



*dress from which the underskirt was constructed. I did have to replace a motheaten section of the purple trim.
orange frock
montjoye: (Default)
( Aug. 27th, 2014 09:14 am)
While slightly under the influence last Friday night, I volunteered to make beer for an event. Mrsbrown asked "what would make this event fun for you", or words to that effect. My first answer was "clothes that fit", closely followed by "making a brew for it". So... a few days later, I have done more reading, decided on a brew and ordered the grain.

I'm going to have a second try at what I was attempting for last festival. This time I will order the correct grain and not mix it up with a second recipe. This is the Irish Red recipe from Classic Styles, with a few small changes. I've halved the amount of roast barley because the type I can get is darker than the one the recipe calls for. I've swapped out a little of the pale malt for smoked malt. I'm going very cautious on the smoked, don't panic. A proper rauch beer recipe has 33% beech smoked malt. I'm only using 5%.

Nods to 16/17th century brewing:
-Low levels of specialty malts. The old recipe I'm looking at just says "malt". I've read some things that suggest early malts were all dark. Others think it was paler but likely mixed in with some bits that got too hot. Wood smoke was almost certainly involved.
-a smallish amount of low alpha acid English hops, added only at the start of the boil.

I'm not using historical mashing technique though. I'm not set up for gravity mashing. So I'm aiming at a line somewhere between authenticity and a tested recipe. I also don't want to serve anything much higher than 5% alcohol for safety/health/limiting intoxication reasons. The old recipe has twice the malt, which would mean something less than twice the alcohol (efficiency of sugar extraction drops with higher grain to water ratio). Later, when not under pressure as the only brew for an event, I'll have a go with these ratios and see what happens. I'd like to know better how to imitate the old malt though.

I'm still evolving my plan for the small beer. I think I'll keep it simple and not use either honey or spices. If it comes out a bit tasteless, I can steep the orange and spice and add it in later.
montjoye: (Default)
( Mar. 4th, 2013 09:45 pm)

well, not nearly all. Having got a bunch out to label, I thought I'd make a first effort at deciding what would actually come to festi this year. A few things went back in the cupboard, some never came out this round. Still out, and making a nice picture* are:

6 eating sized bowls- can serve in them too of course (too many?)
3 serving/mixing bowls
5 plates- again, some for eating, some for serving.
2 spoons for eating
2 tiny spoons
2 serving spoons
2 eating knives
3 cups
2 jugs
2 bottles           }
4 storage jars } but what to put in them?

a few more things need labelling and I ought to oil the wooden stuff. Some of this was Skud's so is returning to familiar company (thanks again).

and then there will be some regular kitchen equipment too. are there enough chopping boards already? I do plan to bring my big knife for comfort in the chopping.

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*pity about the paint splattered drop cloth.
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For 12th night, a scrap of wool fabric and some freezer bricks worked fairly well to keep my beer cool. But arranging the wool was awkward. So, though not exactly medieval, here is a more elegant and hopefully functional version. Two layers of dark navy wool gaberdine with wool batting between, quilted together by hand with silk, 'cause i could. All from stash.  It is sized to fit neatly inside my feast box. It takes up much of the box but is squishy so the ratio of beer to other stuff I can carry is fairly flexible.


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