montjoye: (Default)
( Mar. 1st, 2016 01:15 pm)
I've taken in the new shirt pattern in a few places and converted it to include a yoke. Also shortened it and put a shirt tail curve on the hem. It's moving back towards a classic shirt. There are enough changes that I should cut a new pattern, and I still need to raise the armhole a bit, and I suppose convert the cuff to a standard one. Yes I had a shirt pattern but it is too close fitting than what I want for comfort. So I went too large and now it's being brought back in. Iterative pattern development again. I suppose I want a shirt that fits well but isn't tight and has no darts. I may end up with back darts anyway for my sway back, otherwise the overall effect is visually larger than it needs to be. Oh, this collar is just an old fashioned deep rectangle. I rather like this sort, though they don't work well with a close fitting jacket collar. The "cuff" is just a hem with a fastening of a pair of buttonholes and a button.

I keep going on about lovely quality linen. This is another example. Quite a loose weave but feels stronger than one would expect. Extreme "linen wibble" in the hand, possibly very long staple? This is one of the pieces I got at Christopher George back in November. Buttons are blue dyed (I presume) shell, from Eliza's I think. Corded buttonholes again. When I do these, I should perhaps sew the buttons on with a thread shank?

So ~$15 in materials? plus a day or two work.

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more pics )
montjoye: (Default)
( Nov. 9th, 2015 03:00 pm)
I'm doing the "I've got Liberty Paisley" dance. Woo and Hoo!

Phillips shirts in Melbourne are moving and trying to sell off all their fabric. Well so they say but apparently they don't have new premises yet. They have so much stock that I cannot see how it will clear in a week. I wonder if they will drop the prices stupid low? or take the remainder with them? or sell it as a job lot? or what?

I knew they had Tana lawn at $25/m. My considered decision in advance was that I wanted paisley, not girly florals. Of the 8-10 designs available, three were paisley and two were colours I love. I feel so lucky. Apparently more Liberty is due to be delivered later in the week. Do I go back?  Oh I can't go Friday, just as well I suppose.

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So, the damage:
The measuring was very generous, so price per meter ended up less than expected. Liberty was theoretically $25/m and the rest $8/m. (Silks were $12/m but I didn't get any)

Orange Liberty- 2.5m, paid for 2m
Blue Liberty- 3m (but with a small cut and a water mark), paid for 2m
So these came out to $18.20/m. 115cm wide.

Blue satin stripe- 3.5m, paid for 2.5m (I loves me a satin stripe)
Blue/green strip- 3.5m, paid for 2.5m
Pink/green/white check- 3.3m, paid for 3m (this is tip top quality shirting, glossy but still cotton)
So this lot came out to $6.20/m, but they are all very narrow, only 92cm/~1 yard wide.



montjoye: (Default)
( Aug. 14th, 2015 05:18 pm)
Foolishly or not, after wanting to for days, I took my still lurgified self off into town for a pin point mission to see what Clegs had on sale for the closing of their city store. I was hoping for Liberty Tana Lawn at stupid cheap prices of course, and cheap haberdashery too. Well, these two Tana lawn bolts were reduced to half price but the rest of the Tana was not reduced at all. No broad reductions on anything really except sewing patterns and millinery stock. I was a bit conflicted about both of these pieces. The yellow roses I have a shirt out of already, but this piece can sit aging in stash until the current shirt has worn out. That won't take forever because I love it and wear it lots. The pink flowers, are not my pink, but I like the pattern and the green. Both pieces are 1.7m @ $22.48/m, or $38.22  each, way more than I usually spend on fabric but Tana is special.

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montjoye: (Default)
( Oct. 20th, 2014 03:56 pm)
I was feeling tired and low brain on the weekend, but still felt like sewing. So I cut two simple linen shirts. Same fabric but different sides out. I do hope they work as well as it seems they might.

Now I need trousers or straight skirts to wear them with. They don't look wonderful with full skirts.

IMG_4295-2

more pics )
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montjoye: (Default)
( Jul. 6th, 2014 12:14 pm)
I do like making shirts. I think I made my first proper shirt in late high school. It was striped cotton in soft pastel colours, chock full of mistakes and I found it a challenging project at the time. But I learnt lots and proceeded to make a lot more shirts. So, I've been making shirts intermittently for um, about 30years. Fack, I'm old. But I am also pretty good at making shirts :-) I now have a favourite pattern that was originally copied off a ready to wear(RTW) garment, but I have tweaked and fiddled with it so many times that it isn't the same at all anymore. I also have firm opinions on my preferred way of constructing every bit. Note that I don't claim any of this is the "right" way, just the way I like to do it.

On of the benefits of making one's own clothes is that one can customise them. So I can have a shirt that is slim fitting, but not tight. The body shaping is postioned correctly (RTW bust  and waist shaping is never in the right place for me).The arms are long enough and are cut so moving is not restricted- one has options other than just holding one's arms by one's side. The buttons are positioned for minimising gappage on my figure. Length is enough to tuck in but not over long. Basically, the right shape for me. Nothing fancy, but comfortable and functional. One can of course fancy it up from here, which I do in fact plan to do, and have a bit on the white one here.

I've made these three to:
- fill wardrobe gaps
- make shirts :-)
- get back into dressmaking mode
- actually use some of the recently aquired fabric before it ages into "stash"
They were cut last Saturday morning, and finished yesterday (Saturday) afternoon. So three shirts took just over a week to make, while I had a cold and worked (mostly) fulltime.

The two coloured shirts are from Liberty Tana lawn aquired in my boxing day raid last year. The yellow piece was only 1.5meters and with two nasty rents in the fabric which constrained cutting. However Tana lawn is very wide, and I had some nice yellow scrap shirting* that worked for collar bands and under collar etc, so I had just enough. Tana is marvellous fabric to wear but not easy to work with. It is very fine and very tightly woven. One needs a very sharp fine needle and it's still a struggle to not have stitching gather up the fabric.

The white is the first garment from the warehouse linen haul of a few weeks ago. I'm keen to see how this wears and ages, and the best way to do that was to get a garment made in it!

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. IMG_3869


IMG_3866

The blue and white shirts came out pretty much as I intended. Not totally perfect but just fine. The poor yellow one however ended up with a whole list of errors. Part of the problem was that there isn't much difference between right and wrong side of the fabric, but that is also true of the white, so not a full explanation.

For my amusement, the poor yellow rosy shirt is afflicted with:
-Back piece is sewn wrong side out. This was done even with back darts in place that should have prevented this! I didn't find the problem until I went to do the hem, so rather than pull it out, I unpicked the back darts and resewed them the other way around.
-One sleeve was sewn on back to front. This was discovered when I went to put the cuff on, so to fix it properly, I'd have had to undo the whole shoulder seam and side seam, this is 4 runs of stitching, 2 of which are overlocking. Ack. What I did was similar to the back fix but more work and less invisible. You see the cuff vent was inside out and on the front of the sleeve instead of the back. So I pulled that off and patched the slit. Then made a new cuff vent in the right place. I hope to never have to build a cuff vent on an almost finished sleeve ever again.
-One cuff was sewn on inside out. Again the easiest fix meant ending up with the wrong side of the fabric out. Argh. this was getting ridiculous. I put even more effort in to preventing even more mistakes... but
-I somehow managed to stuff up the button spacing as well! Only one button and thankfully below bust level.
Poor yellow shirt.

Three friends have expressed interest in shirt making workshops. That might be a fun thing.


*from my very favourite shirt made and worn ~15yrs ago. It's actually yellow and white shot fabric so it shimmers slightly.

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